Picturesque Parkland Golf In The North of London

Game, set and match

After many unsuccessful attempts, I am lucky enough to get two tickets for Court No. 1 at Wimbledon. We are just as impressed by the sporting performances of the top players as we are by the amateur matches that take place on the other courts. There are 18 of them in total. Here we can get up close to the young tennis elite and admire their skills at close quarters.

We are equally impressed by the spaciousness of the grounds, the unique atmosphere and the feeling of excitement amongst the spectators. Champagne corks pop around us as alcoholic drinks are allowed up to a certain limit, as is bringing your own edible refreshments.

We savour the Strawberries and Cream and the famous Pimm’s drink with thousands of tennis fans on the legendary Henman Hill. From here we watch the ladies’ single final, huddled together with fellow fans under the best British weather. We thoroughly enjoy the match and the tasty drink with the enthusiastic crowd.

While the price of the Strawberries and Cream has remained constant at GBP 2.50 since 2010, we’re putting down GBP 11.95 per cup for the ultimate Wimbledon drink. The ice-cold mixture of Pimm’s No. 1 (25% gin-based herbal liqueur), lemonade, fresh mint, orange, strawberry and cucumber slices has been a hit for years and has been delighting visitors since 1971. More than 300,000 pints were sold in 2024.

An oasis of peace and seclusion

After this wonderful experience, we head north of London to Welwyn in Hertfordshire. Just 22 miles north of the city centre, we come across a retreat that captivates us from the outset. After passing through the locked entrance gate, a vast estate spreads out before us. The 220-hectare estate includes among others two extensive 18-hole championship golf courses, a huge practice facility, a golf clubhouse, an AA Rosette fine dining restaurant and an inviting luxury lodge.

One of the most beautiful manor houses in England

The imposing manor house, built in the neo-classical style, sits enthroned in the centre of the grounds. Its origins date back to the 13th century though it was given its present form in 1746 by one of the leading architects of his time. Sir James Paine, who was commissioned to redesign Brocket Hall. It took a further 15 years to complete.

Numerous celebrities, politicians and members of the Royal Family have lived there or visited the estate, including Queen Victoria, Lord Palmerston, Lord Melbourne and Lord Byron.

It is open for private parties, golf days, corporate events, weddings and film shoots such as Rocketman, The Crown, Spiderman: Homecoming and Pride & Prejudice as well as the TV series Victoria, which is shown on Amazon Prime.

We would have loved to see the inside, but it was closed during our stay.

Two great parkland courses

Brocket Hall offers two picturesque golf courses that are among the most beautiful parkland courses in England. Both are named after the two distinguished Prime Ministers, Lord Palmerston and Lord Melbourne, who both once resided at Brocket Hall. Each course has its own character and offers different challenges for golfers of all abilities.

Plenty of wow moments

The par 72 18-hole Melbourne Course was designed by former Ryder Cup golfers Clive Clark and Peter Alliss and opened in 1992. It has a length of 6,616 yards from the back tees and is harmoniously integrated into the rolling parkland landscape.

Its first two holes start with a breathtaking view of Broadwater Lake, that is spanned by the magnificent Paine Bridge, named after the architect of the manor house.

Also worth noting are holes #4 and #16, the routing of which can be confusing when playing for the first time. But thanks to the help of the four ball in front of us, we are spared a shot into the wrong green.

The River Lea meanders through the course and comes into play a few times. Like on hole #18, which is superbly laid out and one of the most beautiful finishing holes I know: risk and reward at its best.

The drive over the crest of the hill past the bunkers into the wide fairway is a smart start. But then the question arises: should I be aggressive or should I lay up? Because the shot into the green of the par 5 has to be played head-on over the lake. Brocket Hall sits enthroned behind it, making the hole not only a strategical but a visual highlight as well.

The short ferry ride across the lake to the huge green surrounded by two imposing trees is a unique experience. By pressing the button on a small pole, you set the ferry in motion and sail calmly across the water. Here you have enough time to either celebrate your successful shot into the green or lament the loss of the ball in the water. In any case, this hole will remain a lasting memory.

Trees and bunkers galore

The 18-hole Palmerston Course has a length of 7,080 yards from the championship tees. At par 73, it is the more technically demanding course and requires a strong tactical game. Opened in 2000, it was designed and built by Donald Steel together with Martin Ebert.

Unlike the Melbourne Course, water does not come into play on this tree-lined course. Instead, the course meanders through parkland of hornbeams, Scots and Corsican pines, Chilean silver firs and 500-year-old oaks, inspired by the designs of landscape architect Capability Brown. Its strategically placed bunkers and large, undulating greens present a real challenge. These include the hollow on hole #12, which has to be avoided when hitting the green.

Hole #13 is a beautifully laid out par 5 through the woods, which is teeming with bunkers.

Of the four par 3s, we particularly like hole #14, whose green is hidden 204 yards uphill.

The last hole is a downhill dogleg to the right, where an unexpected tree is found in the middle of the fairway! With the bunkers behind, this hole requires full concentration once again.

The vastness of the estate is also reflected in the huge practice area of the Golf Academy. Where else do you have the opportunity to practise shots over a lake onto a green?

The practice facility is just as well maintained as the two courses. Both courses are well worth playing. However, the particular attraction here lies in the combination of the two very different courses. I therefore recommend combining a visit with an overnight stay at the charming Melbourne Lodge that gives you the opportunity to get to know both courses.

Proof of the quality of this venue is that Brocket Hall will once again be hosting the Rose Ladies Open, a premier event on the LET Access Series (LETAS) on the Melbourne Course this year from 6 to 8 September. This event is supported by the English DP World Tour Professional and former world number one, Justin Rose and his wife Kate.

The Melbourne Lodge

The Lodge used to house the estate’s stables in time gone by. Nameplates on the walls of the corridors commemorate the estate’s famous horses, including Persimmon, Dante, Rainbow Quest, Ecllipse, Saint Simon, Tudor Minstret and Sun Chariot. Numerous photos from this period give an idea of the charm of the past.

The 16 traditionally English furnished luxury bedrooms are divided into three categories. Our corner room offers plenty of space and a beautiful view with a bathroom that is also generously sized with a double washbasin and a bathtub shower.

The Lodge is located adjacent to the main hall and is a short walk downhill to the clubhouse, The Melbourne Club. Here you will find the Lodge reception and the only physically staffed pro shop in the world, which is open 24 hours a day, 365 days a year.

Fine dining at the Auberge du Lac

We conclude our great day of golf with an excellent dinner in the extremely charming little building on the other side of the lake. It is the former hunting lodge, which immediately catches the eye with its exposed location. We take the ferry again and start the evening with an aperitif on the terrace of the Auberge du Lac restaurant. The subsequent tasting menu in the cosy dining room leaves nothing to be desired.

Our golf trip to north London is a complete success. The proximity to the city, the well-kept, varied courses and the special ambience of the entire Brocket Hall estate make the trip unforgettable.

Up, up and away

Back in the city, we treat ourselves to something special on the last evening of our trip. The candle light dinner on the 34th floor of the Oblix at The Shard restaurant couldn’t be more romantic. At 310 metres, The Shard was once the tallest skyscraper on the European continent until it was replaced by the Mercury City Tower in Moscow in 2012. It is still number one in London.

The menu, the musical accompaniment by a jazz singer, the view of the Thames and the illuminated Tower Bridge are simply amazing.

Juergen Linnenbuerger

September 2024